A glass of beer sitting on a bar.

How Barley Is Fueling (And Flavoring) New York State’s Craft Brew Boom

New York State’s relationship with beer — and what’s in it — runs deep.   

From Buffalo to Montauk, the production of beer and cultivation of its ingredients has long been part of New York’s agricultural history. During the 19th century, New York farmland billowed with barley and hops, with the latter becoming a commercial crop in 1808. In fact, for more than a century, New York farmers outpaced every other state in the country in hop production. In New York City, before clean water arrived via the Croton Aqueduct in 1842, beer was considered safer to drink than water.

Production peaked at nearly 400 breweries statewide before crop disease and Prohibition disrupted it. The craft beer resurgence of the mid-1980s reintroduced beer production to New York and a new chapter in the state’s brewing history began. But it wasn’t until 2012, when Governor Cuomo signed a farm brewing law fostering a more symbiotic relationship between local farmers and brewers, that industry growth took off. Since the law passed, the number of New York State breweries has grown from 60 to more than 370.

1886 Malt House in Central NY

This month, a new, large-scale barley malting facility in Central New York held its grand opening and will likely help to push the number of New York State breweries well beyond the pre-Prohibition number.

Located in a former Miller Brewing Co. facility in the town of Volney, the 1886 Malt House is slated to become the state’s largest operational barley malting facility. Its name references another era when beer making was big business in New York and is also a nod to the year the Statue of Liberty was officially dedicated in New York Harbor.

The $12.5 million malting facility shares some administrative and logistical operations with owner and operator Sunoco.  “We will be starting with a slow ramp up,” says 1886 spokesperson Erin Tones, “to ensure that our processes and procedures are finely tuned while we increase to full production.”

Featuring a full in-house ASBC (American Society of Brewing Chemists), malt lab and expected to produce more than 2,000 tons of top-notch malted barley sourced from New York State farms per year—that equates to more than 1.6 million gallons of beer--the facility will play a critical part for New York State farm brewers and craft distillers seeking consistently produced, high quality ingredients. “We are thrilled to be part of this growing industry, and even more excited to be sourcing the grain for our facility exclusively from New York farmers,” says Tones.

While Tones admits that more malt houses are currently coming online in the state, 1886 Malt House’s expected output and relationship with state farmers, brewers and distillers will make it a powerhouse component of the New York craft beer industry’s latest defining chapter.

Cheers to that.